“The French isn’t going to die. It’s still me cooking,” Chef Bertrand Chemel says, defending his menu change at 2941. The Falls Church restaurant closed last year to renovate the kitchen and to rework the entire menu, turning from fancy French to upper-scale Mediterranean. Chemel expects 2941 to reopen next week.
“For about four years we tried to change the perception,” the French chef admits about his struggling high-end restaurant. “People come here for celebrations and at the end of it, their check was high and that was the only thing they remembered.”
The economy played a role in Chemel’s decision to temporarily shutter the restaurant, acknowledging that selling a tasting menu in this climate–and in Falls Church–wasn’t working any longer. But the dramatic act of closing also let him finally shift attitudes. “We tried to do so many different types of menus and different types of advertisements, but it never changed,” Chemel says, adding, “We do run a business and it shows over the years that the percentage of tasting menu we used to sell, to now, declined a lot.”
With his kitchen equipment starting to break about two years ago, and the battered economy impacting sales about a year ago, Chemel used the opportunity to campaign for his updated restaurant.
Although, the menu won’t reveal a complete change as Chemel has been showcasing pasta dishes for years. The new 2941 will unveil different types of pasta, including buckwheat and chickpea. Another shift stems from ingredients. Before the renovation, only 20 percent of 2941′s ingredients came from local sources. That number will now jump to 50-60 percent.
Local sourcing, however, doesn’t translate to local drinking. Chemel hasn’t warmed to Virginia wines. “It’s very hard to sell to a guest a Virginia wine that we [buy at] $40 a bottle, and after we do the mark-up, they can have another one that comes from California and the quality will be much better,” says Chemel.
Creativity still reigns in 2941′s blended Italian-Spanish-South of France-American restaurant. “If they like the dishes I used to make on the tasting menu, I think they will enjoy it as a la carte size or appetizer size,” says Chemel, noting he’ll transfer some of his tasting menu dishes to the standing menu. “What I think those people are looking [for] is to come to a beautiful place, but still to have the same quality food.”
But that doesn’t mean white tablecloths and what New Times food critic Melissa McCart terms, “dinner prison.” “People don’t want to stay two or three hours at the table,” Chemel observes, “and that’s the thing that changed from a long time ago.” Of course though, it will all circle back. “I think food is like cosmetics and clothing,” Chemel opines, ” it’s always going to come back.”
Chemel’s not too saddened about the change though,”I try to make myself happy to make my guests happy. I will still do fine dining, but in a more casual way [with] more friendly service, not surly service…” The native French-speaking chef then quickly chimes in, “I’m not sure about the exact wording.”
View the photos here.
Photos by Sally Traynham
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